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Caught in a knot? Your guide to Thread.

Thursday, 1 December 2016

YOUR GUIDE TO THREAD


Tkt 40, 18/3, core spun polyester, nylon, linen thread all have different purposes and come with their own unique sizing. But, how do we deter which thread and what size of thread is suitable for our projects. Having spoken with the experts themselves, we have put together this helpful guide to assist you in finding the right thread. This guide will tell you what their properties are, assist you in how they are sized and what industries they are suitable for.

Bonded Nylon 

Bonded nylon thread is an extremely popular choice across many industries. Known for its high strength and durability combined with its superior abrasion and high-temperature resistance properties, bonded nylon can perform under intense sewing conditions when large quantities are demanded. It cuts cleanly at thread trimming with no ply separation, leaving a neat and tidy finish. Main uses Bonded Nylon can be used for a number of purposes including:

  • Leathergoods
  • Furniture upholstery
  • Automotive
  • Outdoor goods/ sporting equipment
  • Sail equipment
  • Luggage and travel goods

What do the sizes mean? 
Abbey supply Nylon thread in TKT (ticket) 10, 13, 20, 30, 40 and 60, but what does these numbers actually mean? Well in all truth, the TKT number is simply a manufacturing reference number denoting a particular size. In simple terms, the higher the ticket number, the finer the thread. It is important to note that the bonded nylon TKT numbers resemble the fixed weight system as shown below. Metric Count (Nm) = Number of hanks of 1000m /kg Nm = 1000/ Tex Knowing these formulas can help you establish how many hanks (units of yarns) of a 1000 meters there are per kilogram. The table below shows coats nylon TKT number and their corresponding Tex number.

TKT (Ticket Size)Tex NumberRecommended needle size (Metric)
10270160 - 200
13210140 - 180
20135130 - 160
30105120 - 140
4070100 - 120
604090 - 100


Core Spun Polyester

 Core Spun Polyester (CSP) can stand the heat! Its cotton wrapped corespun polyester with a glace finish, provides an excellent sewing performance particularly when high speed sewing is required. The cotton wrap protects the inner polyester from overheating and thereby preserves its strength. For those looking for water resistance thread combined with a natural look, CSP offers exactly this. When the thread comes into contact with water, the cotton absorbs the water and swells to fill the needle holes to prevent leakage. Main uses
  • Leathergoods
  • Luggage and travel goods
  • Fashion accessories
  • Automotive
  • Saddlery
  • Protective footwear
Sizes and recommend needles: CSP is available in TKT 8, 12, 20, 25 and 36 The table below shows coats nylon TKT number and their corresponding Tex number.

TKT (Ticket Size)Tex numberRecommended needle size (Singer)Recommended needle size (Metric)
830023 - 25160 - 200
1221021 - 23130- 160
2015019 – 22120 – 140
2510518 – 21110 – 130
368018 – 21110 - 130

 Remember, the higher the number the finer the thread!


Linen Thread 

Linen thread has lasted for more than two centuries. Made from the highest quality of flax, its natural fibres prevent the thread from melting and swells when it gets wet making it ideal for outdoor purposes. Once wet, the thread becomes 10 – 15% stronger as well as holding tight knots due to its low extensibility. The satin finish leaves a beautiful appearance when hand stitched especially on Leathergoods and upholstery items.

The main uses are:
  • Automotive
  • Book Binding
  • Canvas
  • Furniture & Upholstery
  • Outdoor Equipment
  • Leathergoods
  • Luggage and travel goods
  • Saddlery
What do the sizes mean? 
Available sizes: 18/3, 18/4, 18/5, 18/6, 35/3 & 40/3 The first number in the sequence refers to the thickness of the yarn while the second number refers to how many yarns make up the thread. 1 yarn = 1 pound of flax spun to a length of 300 yards.

So looking at the size 35/3 as an example…

35 yarn = 1 pound of flax spun to a length of 10,500 yards (35 x 300). This means it has taken 10,500 yards to make up a pound in weight. So, 35/3 thread is made from 3 yarns, with each yarn made from one pound in flax from 10,500 yards which is then twisted together to make the thread.

Ritza 25 Tiger Thread

Ritza 25 serves as popular choice amongst leatherworkers from all around the world. The polyester braided thread is known for its durability and strength and with its waxed coated layer, Ritza 25 has a high water resistance. The wax coating also prevents the ends from splitting and as a result, it can be threaded through needles with ease. *suitable for hand sewing only* Main uses
  • Leathergoods
  • Belts
  • Seat trims
  • Furniture upholstery
  • Sails
What are the sizes? 
Unlike nylon and CSP, Tiger thread is pretty straight forward. Thicknesses measure: 0.6mm, 0.8mm, 1.0mm, 1.2mm, 1.4mm & 1.7mm. Still undecided? Then request a sample card now and let us know which thread you would like to sample.

Want to find out more? Then watch our YouTube Videos below.